Monday, 20 October 2014

Plastic surgery with makeup! Contouring for your perfect face shape.....

                    ROUND                                    PEAR/TRIANGLE

                 OVAL                             DIAMOND                    OBLONG                       SQUARE                              HEART

Almost every good make up and beauty guru these days, has covered the topic of contouring! The thing is... they all follow roughly the same routine. They all shape your face the same way regardless of the shape you already have. What I would like to show you is a more personal approach  with specific shaping techniques customised to suit your face shape!

If you haven't heard of this great make up method before, contouring uses highlights and shadowing to change the appearance of your face and facial feautres. This is includes sagging necks, uneven jawline, eyes, lips and noses! But today I want to concentrate on face shapes.. if you would like more blogs on other features then let me know in the comments below!

The main products used in this technique are highlighter, shader and blusher.....


I prefer to use a matt highlighter for the initial shaping, adding in shimmer later where needed.

I like to use a concealer that is at least 2 shades lighter than my foundation, this works really well for a natural look.

Highlighter is used to draw attention to the parts of your face that you want to emphasise or bring width and fullness to. e.g. cheekbones

 Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NW20 (pictured)

Again, unless you're creating a high fashion or photographic look I would steer clear of the shimmer products. My favourite product to contour with is a nice matt bronzer that you can build and blend easily but you can also use foundation a few shades darfer than your own, or a matt brown eye shadow.
Shader is used to disguise any features you wish to minimize. e.g. double chin
THis will enhance cheekbones and help to blend contouring for a more natural look. You want to choose a colour to help give warmth to your face.
There are 7 basic face shapes - oval, diamond, oblong, square, heart, round and pear/triangle. Oval is seen as the ideal and so I will show you with each face shape how to achieve it!
But first you need to find your face shape. Compare your face with the pictures above to see which category you best fit. If you are finding it hard, use some thin paper to trace the outline of your face on the mirror (make sure you hair is tied back), then compare it with the outlines above. Then just follow the guideline for your face below.....


Congrats!! You're the envy of women everywhere with the most highly desired face shape. All you need to do now is accentuate your beautiful bone structure :) ! Apply blusher to the cheekbones and blend towards the temples. Add a little highlighter above and shader in the hollows of your cheeks as shown.


You have a slightly slimmer forehead and pointed chin with wider cheekbones and temple area. To round the face off into a more oval shape, shade the points of the chin and forehead, and highlight the 4 corners of the face to draw them out (high temples and jawline). Finish by adding blusher to the apples of the cheeks as shown.


With a long, narrow face shape, you want to try and create width, reducing the length of the face. Use shader on the chin and top of your forehead. Highlight the temples and sides of your lower jaw. Blend you blusher out along the cheekbones towards your ears as shown.


With an angular bone structure the face appears to be of similar width from the forehead to the jaw line. The aim is to soften the angles and reduce width at the top and bottom of the face. So we're not going to use highlighter for this one, just shader to the 4 corners of the face and blusher under the cheekbones, blending out towards the temples as shown.


You have a wider forehead and a slim jaw and chin, usually forming a slight point. Add shader to the 2 corners of your forehead to slim it down and highlight the sides of the jaw, adding width. Apple blusher to the apples of the cheeks as shown.


You have fuller cheeks and rounded corners of the forehead. Your face may also be slightly shorter in length giving you a round shape. First apply shader to the 4 corner of your face, then apply a thin strip of highlighter down the centre (forehead, nose, tip of chin). Apply your blusher high on your cheekbones and blend out as shown.


Last but not least, pear face shapes tend to have a narrow forehead and a wide lower jaw, aka a triangle. Add width to the forehead by highlighting the sides. Shade the sides of the lower jaw to slim it down and apply blusher along the centre of your cheekbones to the temples as shown.

And there you have it!! 7 ways to contour for 7 diferent face shapes... you'll be amazed at the difference it makes and my clients have often told me their friends ask if they've 'had something done?'

If you have any questions or would like to see more contouring of noses, eyes, jawline etc. let me know in the comments section.

I'm also going to pick a few of my most popular blogs and turn them into Youtube videos and tutorials. If you would like to nominate this blog, please do so in the comments.

See you soon!!!
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